Vanilla (Vanilla planifolia), Coffee, and Pepper: A Symphony of Flavors from Sumberurip Village
Blitar, The Soul of Java, where history, flavor, and nature meet in perfect harmony
Sabato Kaliwuan visited the western slopes of Mount Kawi, a village that encapsulates the history, flavor, and natural beauty of East Java. Amidst the morning mist and the chirping of wild birds, coffee and pepper plantations grow in layers, creating a harmony of soothing green. But among these plants, there is one special plant that is the youngest child of the tropical nature: vanilla (Vanilla planifolia), the "green jewel" that tempts the steps of flavor hunters from the ends of the earth.
Vanilla is no ordinary plant. It is the fruit of a type of orchid, the only one of the world's more than 20,000 varieties that produces something edible. This plant climbs gracefully, requiring support and shade, as if it knows it's special. In Sumberurip Village, farmers use coffee and pepper trees as natural supports, creating a unique and captivating garden landscape. The blend of coffee, pepper, and vanilla aromas creates a symphony of flavors in the mountain air. Blitar, The Soul of Java, where history, flavor, and nature meet in perfect harmony.
When the blooming season arrives, the vanilla plantation transforms into a gallery of tropical beauty. The vanilla blossoms are a secret revealed for a moment before disappearing back into the leaves' embrace. Small, greenish-yellow orchids emerge, resembling wax flowers that glisten in the morning sun. However, this beauty is fleeting: each flower blooms only once a year, and for only a few hours. Lucky tourists can witness this rare moment, a priceless natural experience.
This is where the human touch becomes a crucial part of the vanilla magic. Like their Totonak ancestors in Mexico, farmers in Sumberurip Village patiently hand-pollinate the flowers. Each movement is carried out with care and calculation. They pollinate only a few flowers per bunch to prevent the plants from becoming exhausted, maintaining a balance between yield and plant health. Sabato Kaliwuan enjoys the process; it's a dance of patience and dedication that travelers can experience.
The vanilla pods begin to form, elongated and bright green. Within six to nine months, they are ready to be harvested by skilled hands. However, the secret of vanilla's sweet aroma remains undiscovered. Fresh vanilla pods have no flavor or aroma. They must undergo a long journey before becoming the precious spice we know.
In Sumberurip Village, the vanilla drying process is carried out traditionally. The green pods are dried in the tropical sun, turned daily, until they slowly turn a deep brown. A fragrant aroma begins to waft out, carrying a message from the earth and sun that have worked together to create them. Travelers are invited to participate directly in this process, experiencing firsthand the agrarian culture passed down through generations.
Each vanilla bean from this village is a story of painstaking care. From intricate pollination to loving care, to natural drying, everything is done by hand. It's no wonder vanilla is one of the most expensive spices in the world, and here, you can see for yourself why.
For travelers seeking more than just scenery, Sumberurip Village offers a journey of immersion into Javanese culture, experiences, nature, Blitar's colonial history, and the flavors of the archipelago. Coffee, pepper, and vanilla plantations grow side by side, symbolizing the harmony between humans and nature. As you walk among the vines, inhale the aroma of spices wafting through the air, and feel the pulse of simple yet rich village life.
Blitar, The Soul of Java, where history, flavor, and nature meet in perfect harmony