Kotagede, A Timeless Blend of Tradition and Romance
Nestled in the heart of Java, Kotagede embodies the essence of traditional Javanese cities, built upon a rich Javanese-Islamic cosmological
foundation. This foundation highlights the vital interplay between the microcosm—our crafted environments—and the macrocosm, which
encompasses the universe itself.
It perfectly captures the harmony between humanity, nature, and society, while also balancing individual aspirations with collective welfare.
Archaeological evidence and the exploration of local toponyms unveil a tapestry of villages within Kotagede, each inhabited by distinct community
groups. The village names themselves, like Pandheyan, Samakan, Sayangan, and Mranggen, are testament to the traditional crafts and
professions embedded in this locale. Further, names such as Lor Pasar, Prenggan, and Jagaragan signify historical figures and noble lineages,
while Kauman and Mutihan connect to the scholarly and religious communities. These toponyms offer a glimpse into the vibrant social fabric of Kotagede, revealing both the professional and ancestral roots of its residents.
Even while Kotagede has transitioned from a political epicenter, it pulses with the vibrancy of modern life. Ancient traditional houses still stand,
whispering tales of its glorious past. The architectural identity of Kotagede resonates with history, reinforcing its status as a vital cultural area. The
traditional Javanese urban framework is elegantly illustrated through the foundational principle of catur gatra, which maintains the key elements of
royal residence, market, town square, and mosque.
Among these enduring components, the Masjid Ageng Kotagede and the bustling Pasar Gede remain prominent symbols of Kotagede’s rich heritage.
Pasar Gede, known today as Pasar Kotagede, has thrived as the epicenter of economic exchange since the era of the Islamic Mataram Kingdom, and
it continues to thrive in contemporary times. Accessibility to this bustling market is seamless, with three major thoroughfares—Jalan Mondarakan,
Jalan Kemasan, and Jalan Karang Lo—leading the way into its vibrant embrace.
Explore Kotagede, and you’ll uncover a city where history and modern life intertwine, inviting you to experience its charm and enduring
spirit.
Welcome to Pasar Legi, A Street Market Full of Life!
If you’re looking to begin your adventure in Kotagede, Pasar Legi is the perfect starting point! This traditional market is brimming with energy, and
the friendly locals are eager to greet you with warm smiles and cheerful jokes that make you feel like you’re among friends.
Pasar Legi holds the title of the oldest market in the City of Gudeg. Its fascinating history goes back to 1549, when Sultan Hadiwijaya gifted this
land to Ki Ageng Pamanahan after a significant victory over Arya Penangsang. Together with his adopted brother, Ki Penjawi, they
transformed a dense forest into a lively market, emphasizing the importance of community over just a place of governance.
As noted by Indonesia.go.id, Pasar Legi has been a hub for both economic activity and social interaction. Ki Ageng Pamanahan believed strongly that
a bustling market was essential for the local people to interact and connect, embodying the concepts of Catur Gatra Tunggal, which
encompasses the balance of the palace, town square, mosque, and market. In its early days, buyers would stroll among the lush trees, chatting with
sellers who were seated right on the ground, exchanging fresh rice, vegetables, and fruits.
Over time, it became known as Pasar Legi, thanks to its peak activity on specific market days in the Javanese calendar.
You’ll love visiting on these market days! Not only can you find all sorts of daily essentials, but there’s also a fantastic selection of beautiful batik
fabrics. Don’t miss the stands filled with traditional herbal medicine, where you can watch as the herbs and spices are prepared fresh right when you
order. They’ll serve it up in charming coconut shell cups, leaving you with a refreshing taste that many travelers adore.
And just to sweeten the experience, you’ll also find tasty traditional snacks to enjoy alongside the herbal drinks, making for a delightful treat.
So come on over to Pasar Legi, dive into its rich history, and enjoy the vibrant community atmosphere that makes Kotagede so special!
Your Taste Buds with Kipo, A Traditional Snack Adventure!
Get ready for a sensory explosion at the vibrant market, teeming with over 600 lively traders! It’s a treasure trove of traditional snacks that you won’t
find anywhere else. Picture yourself indulging in scrumptious delights like kipo cake, waru flower, marrow jenang, grontol, geplak, pukis, and pentol!
And if that’s not enough to tantalize your palate, how about some tantalizing fried rice, kawi fritters, goat satay, and kere satay? Your culinary
journey awaits!
Kipo isn’t just food; it’s a slice of history from the enchanting land of Jogja, particularly the legendary Kotagede! This gem of a treat is making waves
for all the right reasons, and its history dates back to the Ancient and Islamic Mataram kingdoms.
Once overshadowed by cultural shifts, kipo is now bursting back onto the scene, and you’ll want to be a part of it!
Curious about the name “Kipo”? Well, it sparks intrigue, as people can’t help but ask, “Iki opo?” (What is this?). This playful question perfectly captures
the delightful essence of this beloved snack in Jogja!
Get ready to feast your eyes on kipo’s stunning oval shape, chewy texture, and vibrant green color! Each bite reveals a luscious filling of grated
coconut and Javanese sugar encased in a dough made from a heavenly blend of rice and glutinous rice flour. Infused with coconut and pandan
leaves, and adorned with natural green coloring, kipo is as enchanting as it is delicious!
The magic of kipo lies in its preparation: skillfully molded on a clay plate and baked on a banana leaf base, it’s a culinary masterpiece in the making.
When it’s almost ready, the irresistible mixture of grated coconut and Javanese sugar is tucked inside, and the dough is folded and baked to
perfection!
While it may bear a resemblance to “Klepon,” kipo offers a one-of-a-kind flavor experience that will leave your taste buds dancing with joy. Don’t
miss your chance to dive into this extraordinary culinary heritage—grab a kipo and experience the thrill for yourself!
Making Silver Jewelry
After immersing ourselves in the vibrant atmosphere of Legi Market, our adventure takes an exciting turn as we delve into the world of silver
craftsmanship in Kotagede, a place celebrated for its exquisite silver production. This industry has roots dating back to the 16th century when
Kotagede emerged as a vital center for a burgeoning kingdom, fulfilling both domestic and trade demands while embodying a rich tradition of
luxury.
By 1930, the Kotagede silver industry had rapidly gained recognition in the global marketplace.
A pivotal figure in this transformation was Mary Agnes van Gesseler Verschuir, the wife of PRW van Gesseler Verschuir, who was then the Governor of Yogyakarta. What started as a means to meet theroyal family’s needs expanded to cater to international markets, crafting silverware such as spoons, forks, rice scoops, pans, plates, and cups that appealed to European households.
The Kotagede Museum, aptly known as the Living Museum, offers a unique blend of recreation and education.
It showcases a remarkable collection of local silver works, housed within the culturally significant Rumah Kalang building, which was once home to the distinguished B.H. Noerijah—an important figure in Kotagede’s heritage.
The artistry of Kotagede silver is deeply inspired by the ornate carvings of Java’s ancient architectural marvels, such as Mantingan Temple and
Prambanan Temple. This connection not only enhances the beauty of the silver but also distinguishes Kotagede’s craftsmanship, making it a sought-
after choice for collectors and enthusiasts alike.
For those eager to dive deeper, SabatoKaliwuan offers a hands-on experience where you can create your very own silver jewelry, such as
rings. With guided assistance throughout the process—from the initial crafting steps to selecting your ideal design—you’ll walk away with not just
a unique piece of jewelry, but also a treasured memory of your creative journey in Kotagede. Join us and be a part of this rich tradition!.
Grand Mosque of Mataram, A Pillar in the Spread of Islam in Java
Our journey takes us from the skilled silver craftsmen to the remarkable Grand Mosque of Mataram. This architectural gem not only highlights the
rich history of Islam’s spread in Java but also captivates visitors with its beauty and cultural significance, having stood since 1578.
The Special Region of Yogyakarta (DIY) plays a vital role in the narrative of Islam’s expansion in Java. The area is rich with historical remnants from
the Islamic Mataram Kingdom, particularly in Kotagede, the former capital.
Here, one can find a plethora of ancient mosques, including the Grand Mosque of Mataram, the oldest mosque in Yogyakarta, symbolizing the
profound development of Islam in both Yogyakarta and Java at large.
The foundation of the Grand Mosque of Mataram began in 1578 and culminated in 1587 during the reign of Panembahan Senopati. Its
construction was a collaborative effort involving individuals from diverse backgrounds, many still practicing Hinduism and Buddhism. The mosque’s
establishment is closely linked to the arrival of Ki Ageng Pemanahan and his son, Danang Sutawijaya, in Alas Mentaok, where they received land from the Pajang Sultanate. Guided by the teachings of Sunan Kalijaga, Ki Ageng Pemanahan envisioned a mosque that would become a unifying
force in the community. While some sources suggest that the mosque was established during the reign of Sri Sultan Hamengku Buwono I, based on
inscriptions in Arabic and Javanese, the historical significance remains clear regardless of the exact timeline.
A unique aspect of its construction is that the main structure was built by Muslims while the fence was crafted by their Hindu neighbors, showcasing
the harmonious coexistence of different faiths. The entrance, designed in a temple style, reflects this syncretism, which was instrumental in promoting
Islam within a community still largely engaged in animism and dynamism. Sunan Kalijaga’s cultural approach was innovative, leading to broader
acceptance of Islamic teachings in the region.
Over the years, the Grand Mosque of Mataram has evolved from a simple establishment into an expansive religious site. Notably, during the reign of
Sultan Agung in 1611 AD, the mosque underwent significant additions, including a grand porch and courtyard. It is also part of the Pesaren Agung,
an important cemetery in Kotagede, all encompassed by a 2.5-meter highfence. This arrangement reflects the mosque’s significance as a key
element in the structure of the Islamic kingdom in Java, in line with the "catur gatra tunggal" concept, which encompasses four pillars that define
the city: the palace as the center of government, the town square for socio- cultural activities, the mosque for spiritual pursuits, and the market for
economic endeavors.
The architectural design of the Grand Mosque of Mataram is distinctly marked by the Hindu-style fence surrounding its premises. This feature
exemplifies the rich cultural fusion between Islam and Hinduism during that period. The main prayer hall features an elegant two-tiered roof, known
as a tajug, which is constructed from wood and tiled. The pinnacle of the roof is crowned with a *pataka*, while the porch’s roof mirrors this pyramid
shape. The mosque’s "mustaka" is enhanced with "kluwih", symbolizing duality and balance. Architecturally, the mosque’s square shape mirrors the
Javanese principle of “klebat papat limo pancer,” reflecting stability and harmony with the surrounding environment.
Moreover, the mosque houses a bedug, a significant traditional drum, which shares a storied history with the mosque itself. The 1-meter diameter
drum is housed in the porch and is believed to have been crafted from a large tree discovered by Sunan Kalijaga during his travels in Kulon Progo.
The tree belonged to Kyai Pringgit, also known as Nyai Brintik. Upon learning the owner’s identity, Sunan Kalijaga was granted permission to use
the tree, which ultimately became an integral part of the mosque.
Today, the Grand Mosque of Mataram remains a vibrant place of worship and a cherished destination for religious and pilgrimage tourism. It
continues to foster a sense of community and serves as a testament to the rich historical and cultural tapestry of Islam in Java.
Kotagede King’s Tomb Complex, A Historical Overview
The Kotagede King’s Tomb Complex, known as Pasarean Hastana Kitha Ageng, serves as a significant historical site, representing the burial
grounds of the first Islamic Mataram kings and their families, established by Panembahan Senopati. This remarkable complex is situated just west of
the Great Mosque of Kotagede, which is recognized as the foundational site of the Islamic Mataram Kingdom.
Located in the Dusun Sayangan area of Jagalan, Banguntapan, Bantul Regency, within the Special Region of Yogyakarta, this tomb complex is a
resting place for several key figures from the early era of Islamic Mataram, illustrating its importance in the region’s history.
Construction of the Kotagede King’s Tomb Complex began in 1589 and was completed in 1606, as documented in the Babad Momana. The
complex features three main domes—Bangsal Prabayaksa, Bangsal Witana, and Bangsal Tajug—that serve to protect the oldest tombs. Following a fire that damaged the tomb and the area behind the mosque, Sunan Paku Buwana X initiated renovations that incorporated building materials and
architectural styles from that period, ensuring the preservation of this historical site.
Notable Figures Buried Within the Complex
Before the establishment of the Kotagede Royal Tomb Complex, several important figures were already interred in the large dome, including Sultan
Hadiwijaya and Ki Ageng Pemanahan, along with their respective family members. Additionally, after his death in 1601, Panembahan Senopati was
laid to rest alongside them, fulfilling his wishes to be buried west of KiAgeng Pemanahan’s tomb. The large dome also encompasses the graves
of notable figures such as Ki Juru Martani, Nyi Ageng Nis, Panembahan Seda ing Krapyak (Raden Mas Jolang), Sultan Hamengku Buwono II, and
Dukes Paku Alam I through IV.
It is worth noting that Sultan Hamengku Buwono II was interred in the Kotagede complex due to the ongoing Diponegoro War, which prevented
his funeral from taking place in Pajimatan Imogiri at the time of his passing.
Moreover, the tomb of Ki Ageng Mangir is a unique feature within the complex, being partially located inside and outside the dome. As a son-in-
law and adversary of Panembahan Senopati, his burial reflects the complexities of their historical relationship.
In total, the Kotagede King’s Tomb Complex comprises 627 tombs, both with domes and without, showcasing its extensive historical significance.
To maintain the sanctity of this site, visitors are required to follow specific guidelines: footwear is not permitted, and traditional attire, provided by the
abdi dalem (guardians) assigned to the area, must be worn. These practices not only respect the cultural heritage but also enhance the visitor
experience as they engage with this important historical landmark.
Between Two Gates
Embark on an unforgettable journey through Kotagede, where vibrant heritage buildings and winding alleys create an inviting maze just waiting to
be explored. A standout destination is Gang Rukunan, Kampung Alun-Alun, an area that has captured the hearts of netizens with its charming
nickname, “Between Two Gates.”
This enchanting locale features nine historical buildings nestled within a single alley, highlighted by two distinctive gates. Enter through the west
gate, and you’ll find yourself immersed in Gang Rukunan Kampung Alun- Alun, located in the Purbayan District of Kotagede, DIY. Above the
welcoming entrance, you’ll find the year “1923” intricately carved into the wall, while the east gate boasts a striking two-meter-wide green wooden
door, proudly engraved with “Atmo Soeprobo 1840.”
As you stroll along the floral-patterned paving, you’ll encounter an array of ancient architecture that showcases the magnificent beauty of traditional
Javanese styles, including joglo, limasan, and kampung designs. The sturdy teak wood pillars, known as soko guru, stand tall, lovingly supporting these time-honored structures. Exquisite ornamental details crafted from teak wood are not only well-preserved but also beautifully maintained, reflecting the artistry of the past.
In traditional Javanese culture, the main house is often separate from the welcoming guest area, called the Pendopo. In Rukunan Alley, you’ll witness
a harmonious arrangement of homes all facing south, complemented by a beautifully positioned Pendopo and a two-meter-wide road in between.
Despite being a private area, the residents of Kotagede have taken special care to preserve its charm by enclosing it with a sturdy high wall.
Rukunan Alley has blossomed into a must-visit tourist destination since the formation of the Lawang Pethuk community in 2012, which introduced a
fascinating concept of traditional architectural education for curious travelers. Recognizing its significance, the DIY government designated this area as a Cultural Heritage Building in 2018, ensuring its rich history will be cherished for generations to come. Don’t miss the chance to explore this
extraordinary place!
History of Kotagede Batik
Batik, a term rooted in the Javanese word “tik,” signifies the art of fine, detailed handwork that embodies beauty and craftsmanship. This
traditional technique involves the meticulous process of creating intricate cloth patterns by dripping hot wax using a tool called canting, resulting in
stunning designs of dots and scratches.
The history of Yogyakarta’s batik is intrinsically linked to the emergence ofthe Islamic Mataram Kingdom, founded by Panembahan Senopati. During
his quest to establish Mataram, he often retreated to meditate and engaged in spiritual reflection along Java’s southern coast. The
breathtaking scenery—where waves crash against cliffs—served as inspiration for his creation of the parang batik pattern, which eventually
became a defining element of Mataram’s attire.
In 1755, the Giyanti Agreement divided the Mataram Sultanate into the Surakarta Kasunanan and the Yogyakarta Sultanate. This division meant
that royal treasures, including cultural artifacts, were allocated accordingly, with the Yogyakarta Palace receiving the full collection of Mataram Palace
batik. This preservation of unique motifs and colors has carried on through generations, cementing earth tones as a hallmark of Yogyakarta’s batik
identity.
Originally, batik was a cherished art form confined to the palace, primarily educating noble daughters about aesthetics and complex techniques. This
training fostered a sense of taste, patience, and perseverance. In the palace, batik making was the domain of queens and royal daughters,
supported by female Abdi Dalem. Over time, these individuals were allowed to take their unfinished work home, igniting a passion for creating batik
among the Abdi Dalem.
This craft began to spread beyond the palace walls, reaching families of palace attendants and soldiers. As members of the
royal family proudly wore batik, curious villagers sought to replicate these exquisite designs.
Batik’s allure eventually broke free from the confines of nobility, inviting participation from all social groups. New motifs flourished, each reflecting
the unique identities of different communities. There emerged palace batik, exclusive to kings and queens; merchant batik, worn by the financially
prosperous; and farmer’s batik, embraced by the common folk. Thus, batik evolved into a vital social symbol, representing unity and identity in
Javanese culture.
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